They are both prey for the lions and hyenas but their sheer numbers assure that the herd makes it on and the strong survive, allowing the predators their own existence in this raw and humbling land.

When you arrive at the beach you realize that you need cash for everything. No credit cards. The nearest ATM /bank is back in Stonetown and the taxi back is, surprise, cash only. The ATM in Stonetown is often out of money but when working allows a maximum of $250 a pop and only two to three shots a day.  In addition, the Tanzanian shillings you get make a wad nearly a foot thick. But wait, we eventually found that the kiteboarding spot takes credit cards as did the “hotel” up from it and only a 40 minute walk on the beach.  Nirvana.  We stayed, ate, swam and drank there daily.

FYI: Stonetown for me was just lunacy. It is like someone exploded a combination of a run-down Stop and Shop with Building 19 and partitioned the results into five square foot sections each hawking “stuff.” Cash only.
We figure to make it home with a good $1.25 in my pocket. Cash.

Lisa and Terry hanging out at another of our favorite spots, Upendo, because they would take a credit card

Captain and first mate rigging the sail

A hand-made Dhow takes one big sucker mango tree to adze out. Add the outriggers, lanteen-rigged patchwork canvas sail with obligatory holes and frayed edges.  Mango pole for a mast and diagonal pole along the luff; mango pole and paddles when one is “up the creek”; mango stick for a tiller (extras encouraged). Remember to take a few obliquely sliced plastic bottles for bailing (see, nothing that we don’t have) and add some ropes (“lines” are not the lingua Franca). Two act as stays, which are flipped off during jibes and the main sheet which is flipped about the mast and thrown back to the captain. No blocks, just one hole in the mast pole.  Efficient!

Zanzibar pleasure craft

Oh, a new one is 1,000,000 TzS and takes a month to carve out. Like that throwaway TzS? OK: about $625, shipping not included. Otto and I went out for a great $20 voyage and pronounce the experience fabulous. One must understand that the two guys sailing talk incessantly like Tuck and Jones speaking Swahili. Love it.

Otto at the till of the dhow

This beach has it all! Cows wandering between the kiters!

Well, this is what one deserves for thinking that a bit of windsurfing ability translates to the sport of kite boarding in Zanzibar. True, one might of gotten a whiff of reality prior to plunking down the euros when all the instructors were Nordic Gods.  No matter, a few gallons of seawater later, I could see that this is one of those great ideas better left to the grandchildren.

My man Chris and I after the last beating on the water

Perfect weather, shallow crystal water, great wind abounds. Like a sky full of colorful butterflies, kites filled the sky. The flattened pancake on the beach was me.

It is good to have your own Maasai warrior as your new BFF when walking around Zanzibar.  The robes and tinkling bracelets and necklaces are one thing. The humongous double-edged 18 inch knife and the black club with one end the size of a tennis ball gives one a second thought if larceny is on your mind. The knife does not come out for just anything. We are talking about lions, tigers and a serious human situation. The club is for “little things.” I did not push the conversation further.

Nayay and Wescott

His name is Nayai and he now lives in Austin TX and is a friend of Lisa and Cliff, of course. He is here now and in full dress and I for one will try to be no more than a swing away from his side.   Actually, everyone is really friendly but, hey, his proximity is well appreciated.

Just to put it into perspective, all the Maasai we have seen so far carry cell phones as well.

Tuck and Jones arrive with a wagon to help carry our stuff to the Riad

Everyone was beyond friendly and our home is spectacular, spacious and comes with a cook!  Next day: sensory overload with the spice market and souks offering every item that you never knew you really needed until that moment. Lunch on a rooftop. Walk thru the maze of the old city getting nine of us lost for just a half hour is all part of the experience. Terry even brought RummiKub for the game of the night.

On the rooftop of Cafe des Epices in the heart of the spice market