Arusha, Tanzania.  I never knew when these shocking moments would hit. At around ten that morning, I groggily stumbled out of bed and into the bathroom: a crucial part of my daily routine. The shower always represented a place to unwind, relax, and mentally prepare myself for the upcoming day, and in Arusha, Tanzania specifically, the nozzle represented no danger what so ever, however today I was in for a rude awakening. I falsely felt a sense of safety as I took a luxuriously hot shower.  As I thoroughly rinsed the remainder of shampoo from my hair and finished up, I reached down for the metallic lever to switch the shower off.  As soon as my hands made contact:  ZAP!  Volts of galvanizing electricity violently made their way through every fiber of my body.  As you probably know: wet person plus electricity equals not good. I shook up and down with my hair standing on end like a cartoon character.  In the midst of this involuntary spasm, my hand bumped against the lever once again and doubled the pain, and doubled my distrust in showers from now on. Ever since that experience, I now do a little poke test on metallic levers with the tip of my index finger prior to dampening myself. I stepped into that bathroom a tired, naive, and unprepared zombie, but left a shocked piece of toast who couldn’t feel more awake.

Yangshuo, China.  We entered the substantially sized grocery store with an equally big grocery list: eggs, fruit, vegetables, milk, and the other usual items needed to accommodate the maximum impact family.  My mom and I looked around puzzled.  Neither of us could read Chinese, but by first glance everything appeared wrapped in shiny, vivaciously colored, plastic wrappers.  We circled the store while scrutinizing the merchandize; the entire “supermarket” contained nothing more than various packages of gummies, candy bars, and other highly processed goods.  Just to be clear: this isn’t some random candy store, our house manager specifically told us that this is the supermarket.  We walked in to that store expecting to leave with food, but left with a full grocery list and a greater gratefulness for the supermarket a short walk from our house back home that carries dairy, meat, fruit, vegetables, and everything else.

Ubud, Bali. The inconsistency of plugs frustrated me from day one.  Why does everybody insist on using different shapes?  We carry a bag of adaptors with us at all times because you never know if the plugs in the next country will be shaped like a guy with a surprised face (the US plug), a sad face (Australia), a mad face (Tanzania), or any other expression you can think of.  In Bali, the outlets only accept double pronged, cylindrical plugs.  As I fiddled with various adaptors seeing which one would fit into the holes like solving some jigsaw puzzle, my hands frequently made contact with the metal prongs. Sure enough:  ZAP!  I successfully tapped into the electricity, inaccessible with United States plugs, with my hand. Albeit, the shock did not hurt as much as the shower escapade in Arusha, but that is not saying much.  I plugged in with a mild perturbation of using adaptors to charge my iPad, but unplugged my body with a mild fear of using adaptors to charge my iPad.

Bagamoyo, Tanzania. I anxiously awaited with my hand under the shower nozzle for the water to turn from freezing cold to an amiable temperature. Thirty seconds went by, then a minute, then three: the water pressure began to dwindle and the temperature stayed at a constant fifty degrees (Fahrenheit). I finally just stepped in and took the excruciatingly cold water like a man, but only for another minute or so, because after that, the water went from a drizzle to a drip-drip-nothing. That was the second worst shower of my entire life. I turned the shower on expecting hot water and the pressure of at least a squirt gun, but the cold stream shortly died out along with my misconception that showers are only warm and soothing.

Koh Tao, Thailand. Fizz stood a favorite restaurant of mine in Koh Tao, Thailand until the third visit. We all fell in love with the cafe ever since the first night: eating healthy, delicious, pomegranate salad and watching the exotic sunset with the tropical Thai beach in the foreground. The second time at Fizz, we lounged in beanbags on the soft sand, sipped on extravagant cocktails (virgin of course), and listened to their DJ lay down some original drumbeats. The third visit to Fizz, I planned on sitting in the corner, eating some fresh lunch, and working on Biology while my family walked around the island… but not everything goes according to plan. I unpacked my bag at the table and plugged in my rubber, white power cord into the outlet nearby  (a US plug, I couldn’t believe it.)  I nonchalantly picked up the end of the charger to begin charging my device and ZAP!  The doohicky that magnetizes itself inside the computer sent a volatile shock throughout my whole body. I somehow plugged the possessed cord in, but my whole body shuttered and a tingle went up and down my spine. I stared at my dad and started stammering, “Dad, DuDad, Dad!”

He stopped walking away, “What’s the matter?”

“The stupid cord shocked me when I picked it up!”

He responded with, “Did you touch the end of it?”

“Yes,” I tentatively replied.

“That happens to me all of the time, it’s fine.” He seemed unconcerned.

I touched my index finger to the smooth, metallic trackpad and ZAP!  Again.  Now, I not only felt scared and shocked, but angry at Dad who convinced me to shock myself again.  I frantically looked up at him and blurted out, “It shocked me again! It really hurt.”  He walked over (at a pretty slow pace I might add) and touched the computer: ZAP!  Sweet revenge. “Let’s find a different cafe,” he suggested with an anxious look in his eye. I walked into Fizz expecting to get a tranquil view, a healthy plate of salad, and a good amount of work done, but left with the bottle of water I ordered and a newfangled cautiousness when handling my power cord.

Zanzibar, Tanzania. Zanzibar opened my eyes in many ways, but perhaps the most significant shocker occurred when my grandfather, dad, brother, and I visited Kingey’s home… our driver from Crazy Mzungos.  We made our way out of a small street market and turned onto a bumpy, dirt road.  Houses, comprised of scrap metal, cardboard, and cement surrounded us, along with a herd of stray cows, palm trees, and a group of local kids playing soccer with a scrappy ball of trash.  Everything looked dirty and exasperated by the oppressive heat.  We parked the car outside of a tiny cement compound with no windows, and walked in through the door frame (there was no door.)  Inside sat three women, one elderly and two middle aged, as well as two small kids who looked three or four years old. They greeted us with big smiles and said hello in Swahilli, “Jambo.”  I scanned the room: no lights, no furniture (besides two plastic stools and palm leaf mats) and nothing to entertain themselves but each other. They had so little, but still seemed so joyous. I walked into Kingey’s home hot, tired, and longing for a cool pool, but I left shocked and grateful for what I already had.

Wiring in Yangshuo, China where we had the best WIFI in Asia!

Day 1: Introductions

The first day in Bagamoyo was all about introductions.  After eight months of emailing back and forth, I finally got to meet Terri, the founder of the Baobab Home.  Out of all the people we have met on this trip so far, I can confidently say that Terri is the most courageous.  She left the comforts of the west and moved to Bagamoyo on a mission to help children who have been affected by AIDS.  She raised money and built the Baobab Home, so orphans who lost their parents to AIDS could have a place to grow up.  Terri is passionate about education and made it a priority for the Baobab children.  Dismayed when she found that the schools in Bagamoyo weren’t up to her standards, Terri erected the prestigious Steven Tito Academy right next to the Baobab Home.  Now the Baobab kids, as well as many others from the community, have access to a great education right on their doorstep.

In addition to meeting Terri that day, we met her equally bighearted husband and her two kids.  We also were introduced to all the students, the teachers at the school, and an amazing young man, William, who grew up in the Baobab Home under Terri’s care. I also got to witness the kids during reading time…using the books! Watching the children read the books for the first time was a quintessential moment for me. All of the hard work, all of the donations, all of the generosity and perseverance was wrapped up into that moment. Seeing those children reading, laughing, and absorbing the same stories I loved as a kid, was an indescribable feeling. I just stood there: I remember trying to say thank you to Terri, but not being able to make any sound. It was as if I had checked out of reality for a moment and found myself in this strange, outlandish place. Could I really be in Africa? Could I really be watching a boy in Africa read a copy of Good Night Moon from Island Books on Mercer Island? It was an unbelievable and exhilarating feeling when reality checked back in with the answer to my questions: “Yes.”

Later that afternoon, we spent time in central Bagamoyo, where Terri introduced us to Ernesto, the local carpenter who was willing to volunteer his workshop and his time to help us. I could hardly sleep that night. I must of stayed up until at least four in the morning going through the plan in my head for the upcoming days.

Terri, Ernesto, and I strategizing.

Downtown Bagamoyo outside Ernesto’s workshop

Front entrance of Ernesto’s workshop

Yve playing games with Terri’s son, Justice!

Day 2: Getting Started

On the second day, I rounded up the troops and assembled the teams. Team “building the bookshelves” would include Ernesto, the talented local carpenter who spoke no English (hey…you know what they say: good leadership is all about how you pick your team. Expert Tanzanian Carpenter on my team = awesome leadership on my part); William, who would be our translator; Erin, my godmother from Austin, Texas who connected me with Terri in the first place; Marquis, Erin’s friend from San Francisco willing to help out with the hard stuff; my Dad, who was there to support me and help me with anything I needed him to do, and me. The other team, Team “Classroom Readiness,” comprised of Yve, Otto, and my Mom, would be putting the brand new books to good use by reading to the children, painting new chairs for the classrooms and volunteering at the Baobab Home.

After the teams were amassed, it was time to hit the wood.  We operated out of Ernesto’s workshop.  Needless to say, it was compact, but other than that, it was pretty nice. When it came to tools, Ernesto was very resourceful; he made use of a broken power drill by cracking the circuit board open and duck taping a semi-sketchy copper wire to the back.  We were only staying for a week, and didn’t want to take up all of Ernesto’s time, so we worked like crazy that day.  Sawing, shaving, and sanding, so that the next day, the wood could become a bookshelf.

Team “Building Book Shelves” (minus Marquis)

Marquis became an expert at the lathe and made all the bookshelves look awesome!

Back at Baobab where Nayay became an expert at painting chairs!

Day 3: Assembly

We spent the entirety of Day 2 perfecting the heavy wooden planks, so Day 3 was all about assembly. The problem was that we were lacking some necessary materials: screws, nails, glue, plywood for the backs, and other basic necessities for bookshelf building.  William asked Ernesto for directions to the nearest hardware store and he described one about a five minute walk up from the workshop. I sent Dad, Erin, and William; an hour later they came back with everything we needed.  Just to give you a little glimpse into why it took so long to build the bookshelves: we spent a solid 30 minutes sorting out the usable nails from the bent, dull, and rusty ones in the boxes of “new” nails they just bought

By the end of Day 3 we were styling! All three of the bookshelves were assembled (minus the plywood backs, which we still hadn’t purchased) and ready for priming.

Assembling the bookshelves at Ernesto’s workshop

After two long days in the workshop, the bookshelves are almost done!

Meanwhile, back at Baobab, Yve and Otto are participating in reading time with the students!

Mom spends most of her time playing with the kids and painting chairs.

Teams unite to celebrate the bookshelves being close to complete!

Day 4: Transport

We tracked down some plywood backs from our favorite hardware store down the road and nailed those babies on. I don’t know what people thought of us, but I don’t think they see many foreigners running back and forth through town with three huge, floppy pieces of plywood over their heads. We attracted some bizarre looks during our 8-10 quests for supplies.

William arranged for a truck to pick up the three fully assembled bookshelves and drop them off at the Baobab Home. We followed by foot, but by the time we got there, we had another problem on hand. The bookshelves could not be out in the open because a storm was moving in, and if they got wet before we lathered them up with primer, it would be game over!  I enlisted the strongest people around (Marquis, Erin, Nayay, my Dad and William) and we all moved the bookshelves two hundred feet to the shed: where we could store them while we went to find lunch, primer, and paintbrushes. The shed we were planning on storing them in was completely full with firewood, so we organized a long assembly line: Nayay, then Otto, then Yve, then me, then Mom. We transported the shed full of wood to a big pile. There was a rat who was living in the shed under the pile of wood, and he was startled when we disassembled his home of sticks. Nayay was equally startled when he saw the startled rat, and beat it with a stick, grabbed it by its tail, and chucked it far away. Gotta love his Maasi warrior instincts!

Stick assembly line pre-rat!

In the afternoon, fully equipped with wood primer, paintbrushes, newspaper, and Sharpies: we were ready to get designing. Teams “build the bookshelves” and “classroom readiness” collaborated and finalized the bookshelves by drawing amazing scenes from our safari on the sides and by putting a nice, glossy, protective layer of primer over each of them. By the next day they would be dry, done, and ready for use!

Backs on and shelves ready for transport!

Loading the shelves!

They are off!

Day 5: Finishing Up

We arrived early: eager to see the finished product. Unfortunately, one of the shelves had toppled over during the night and the back now sported a pitiful, gaping hole. The other two however were beautiful! We lugged them inside the classrooms and loaded them up with books.

Erin drawing final decorations on the trim!

Kids admiring the animal drawings Dad did!

Relaxing at D’z during lunchtime and playing with Erin’s son, Kiaka

Typical lunch at D’z!

Dad gives his camera to one of the students who took this pic

Otto attacks final coat of lacquer like a conductor!

I got the privilege of picking a book off of the bookshelf with the kids and reading it aloud.  I noticed that on the cover was a big, shiny, silver sticker: the Caldecott Award. A flashback occurred. I went back in time, back when I was little, really little, living in Austin reading Click, Clack, Moo, a classic about cows that can type. After reading that book, I was obsessed with the idea of winning a Caldecott Award. Every day in kindergarten, I would sit at a desk and just create books, and I have to say, some of them weren’t as bad as you would expect. The memory made me laugh out loud. Although I hadn’t yet won the Caldecott Award, I had won something far better: a journey of a lifetime. During this journey I met amazing people who have become my role models; I have learned valuable lessons that have taught me an incredible amount about my leadership style; and, best of all, I have connected with a community. The Baobab Home is such a fitting name considering it feels like my home away from home  in Tanzania.

Three months ago I completed a journey of a lifetime, but more accurately: three months ago, a journey of a lifetime completed me.

I want to thank Terri and her family for giving me the opportunity!

I want to thank Daniel, the marine that coordinated the shipments of books and made all of this possible.

I want to thank Roger and the team at Island Books for working so hard to pick out the perfect titles and coordinating all the book sales!

I want to thank Troop 647, my Boy Scout Troop on Mercer Island.

I want to thank my aunt, Kaarina, for working with Troop 647 to ship all the donated books.

I want to thank Mouni and Kim for being mission control on Mercer Island.

I want to thank Ernesto for letting us use his workshop, tools, and expertise.

I want to thank William for bridging the language gap and for introducing us to D’z

I want to thank the teachers and student of Steven Tito Academy for putting the books to good use!

I want to thank Erin, Nayay, and their kids, Sam and Kia, for traveling to Tanzania with me to support my project.

I want to thank Marquis for all the hard work he did to help during the week.

I want to thank my parents for being awesome!

I want to thank Yve, Otto, Tuck and Jones for busting it out in the hot African weather and not complaining.

I want to thank D’z….the best restaurant in Bagamoyo!

I want to thank Mr. Townsend, Mr. McLellan, Mr. Callahan, Mr. Hamilton, and Mr. Padgett for approving the project and getting the ball rolling.

I want to thank our family and friends who made this all possible with their generous book donations!

And finally, I want to thank all of those who made this journey possible, and all of those who seriously made a positive difference in not only my life, but in many, many children’s lives as well. THANKS EVERYONE!

What the classroom looked like before the bookshelves were built…

…and after!!

We had so many books donated that we were able to make different sections of the library!

Showing the students where the books came from (Seattle) on their map!

To read previous posts about my Eagle Project click here and here and here! Thanks!

We have tried to post pics and videos of our more interesting accommodations but some folks have asked for details so we thought we should award a “BEST” to each place and also send direct links in case anyone wants to bookmark them.

Our goal on this trip has been to stay at least a week but preferably 2-3 weeks in each place. Our philosophy on accommodations has been to try and stay in apartments or houses when possible. It is more affordable and gives us a better feel for the culture and community. We can cook for ourselves, seek out the best bakery and grocery shop and tackle laundry like the locals

 *****

Florence, Italy

AWARD: Most Colorful Neighbor

View from our balcony in Florence.

We wrote about “cranky lady” in our blog but this really was a great neighborhood apartment. Three bedrooms, great proximity to all the sites and good value! https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/933558

 *****

Oia, Santorini, Greece

AWARD: Best Sea View

When we got up in the morning for coffee, this was the view from the table!

It is hard for me to be objective, because Oia is still one of my favorite places on earth. Staying in a cave house was a dream of mine, so Lydia House was a dream come true! Definitely one of our splurge accommodations but worth every cent and comfortably fit all of us! Plus Manos, the owner, is so gracious and made our stay unforgettable! http://www.vrbo.com/357131

 *****

Athens, Greece

AWARD: Best Amenities For Free

We had a peek-a-boo view of the Acropolis from our balcony!

We picked AVA Hotel from TripAdvisor and we weren’t disappointed! Great location and great service.  Free breakfast, free candy, free movies, free slippers, etc. Definitely a good value for Athens. http://www.avahotel.gr

 *****

Pitsidia, Crete

AWARD: Best Place For Insanity

Wescott rates all accommodations on whether or not it has enough room to do the Insanity Workout indoors…our Villa Potamis in Pitsidia was very spacious and perfect….it also had a pool! Great kitchen too. It was a little too far from Matala but if you want to be off the beaten path, it is a great house for your $$! http://www.vacation-apartments.com/11533.htm

 *****

Barcelona, Spain

AWARD: Best Location

Tons of cool street art in our neighborhood in Barcelona!

Our Barcelona 4th floor walk up apt in the Barri Gotic district was so ubercool we felt like hipper humans simply walking in the front door. The neighborhood was unbeatable with El Salon, one of the best restaurants we have discovered on the whole trip, right across the alleyway…Laura Kelso, you would love it!! http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p970965?flspusage=fl

 *****

Seville, Spain

AWARD: Best Piazza & Worst Wifi

Tuck in courtyard of our apartment, eating a donut and looking for the resident Turtle (Tortuga)

We don’t want to make a habit out of awarding “worsts” but we had to do it here. The apartment was dynamite with a terrific roof deck and adjacent to a quaint piazza with several good restaurants. But the Santa Cruz neighborhood, while ground zero cool in terms of its location next to the cathedral, was also the worst part of the city for wifi. It was so bad we had to get an extra room 10 blocks away at a hostel just to do email and Skype calls….!!! http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p1004734

*****

Lisbon, Portugal

AWARD: Best Interior Decor

A machine gun box is in the hallway…the twins used it as a shoe holder

Our apartment in Lisbon was a three bedroom centrally located in the city.  But the best part was the decor! Frederico, the owner, is an interior designer and has created a uniquely eclectic vibe with use of local artists pieces mixed with antiques. It is awesome! We actually had the pleasure of staying in 2 of Frederico’s apartments because our stay in a Lisbon was extended and they were both amazing! Apt1:  https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/991682 Apt2: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/823181

 *****

Marrakech, Morocco

AWARD: Best Urban Oasis

Killer lighting in the Riad!

Right in the heart of the old Medina, Riad Sekkat is a wonderfully zen escape in the heart of the Marrakesh chaos. And everyone who takes care of you at the Riad is amazing! We definitely had some of our best meals in Marrakesh at the Riad, and the cook, Raja, taught us some cooking techniques! Siham, the house manager, went above and beyond to make our stay unforgettable. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g293734-d1389183-Reviews-Riad_Sekkat-Marrakech_Marrakech_Tensift_El_Haouz_Region.html

 *****

Bwejuu Beach, Zanzibar, Tanzania

AWARD: Best Unspoiled Beach To Get Away From It All

Bwejuu is definitely the most “off the beaten path” we have been so far on this trip. Most tourists go to the northern coast of Zanzibar rather than the east. We stayed for 3 weeks in two different hut-type accommodations. The first was Crazy Mzungos which was exactly what it sounds like…. A funky backpacker type place with a great sand floor bar and a good chef! http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g616019-d1942330-Reviews-Crazy_Mzungo_s_Flashpackers-Bwejuu_Zanzibar_Zanzibar_Archipelago.html

This is the beach in front of Crazy Mzungos during Christmas week!!

The second was Pakacha run by a local man who has integrated the village into his establishment. More likely to see cows walking by on the beach than people  http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g616019-d2374032-Reviews-Pakacha_Bungalows-Bwejuu_Zanzibar_Zanzibar_Archipelago.html

View from the bungalows at Pakacha

Both were fun and funky!

 *****

Arusha, Tanzania (on safari)

AWARD: Most Luxurious Tent & Best Organic Farm

We used safaris.com to book our entire expedition and were lucky enough to get matched up with Kibo…a very cool Tanzanian company! They owned both lodges we stayed in during our safari, Kitela and Lake Masek Tented Camp. Kitela has a gigantic organic farm on the property that grows food, not only for Kitela guests, but many other Kibo lodges. For those of you obsessed with gardening, it is worth the trip to Tanzania just to take a tour of the Kitela organic farm. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g790144-d3421174-Reviews-Kitela_Lodge-Karatu_Arusha_Region.html

Lake Masek is a tented camp right in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area on the edge of the Serengeti. The tents are the most luxurious tents known to mankind with footed bathtubs, flushing toilets and amazing outside showers. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g317085-d1547561-Reviews-Masek_Tented_Camp-Ngorongoro_Conservation_Area_Arusha_Region.html

 *****

Arusha, Tanzania (rental house)

AWARD: Best Mountain View

Mom and Cliff hang in gout in the Arusha House garden

With a sunset view of Mount Kilamanjaro from the swimming pool, dining room, and master bedroom, this house can not be beat on the Mountain View! Add monkeys swinging in the trees on most nights for an added bonus! Such a cool house and great place to chill after safari! https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1669725?guests=7&s=h4cq

 *****

Bagamoyo, Tanzania

AWARD: Best Body Surfing

We changed places in Bagamoyo because the first place we stayed at was a nightmare. The Bagamoyo Country Club is probably the nicest place in Bagamoyo. It is on a spectacular stretch of beach and has a decent restaurant. But all in all, you should not travel to Bagamoyo if you want an outstanding beach experience. There are a ton of awesome reasons to visit Bagamoyo, but a great hotel is not on the list. If we had to do it over again, we would have tried a small guesthouse and skipped trying to be on the beach.  http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g678704-d1758132-Reviews-Bagamoyo_Country_Club-Bagamoyo_Pwani_Region.html

 *****

Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

AWARD: Best hotel room with dining table for 8!

View of Dar Es Salaan from our hotel room balcony

We picked our hotel in Dar based on TripAdvisor reviews and we weren’t disappointed. Tanzanite Suites isn’t the most awesome hotel but it is a good value.  Plus we were able to get a 3 bedroom suite that had a dining room table for 8 which was an awesome hang out for all of us as we regrouped before headings to Asia. We visited some of the more expensive hotels in Dar but decided they weren’t worth the money. http://www.tanzaniteexecutivesuites.com

 *****

Hanoi, Vietnam

AWARD: Best, Best, Best! Value!! Service!!!

Tuck and Jones hanging out with Viet and his son at the front desk playing games on the iPad

Finnegan’s was so outstanding, we can’t decide on only one “BEST.” For $45/ night, we had a great room in a great location with an awesome breakfast included. But the best part was the service! Viet and his whole family took care of us and helped us get the most out of our 2 weeks in Hanoi! He even called Tuck and Jones orphanage on our behalf and set up our visit!!! Thank you Viet and everyone at Finnegan’s for making our visit unforgettable!! http://hanoifinneganshotel.com

 *****

Hoi An, Vietnam

AWARD: Best Home Base

At the Ha An they even put rose petals on your bed for check-in

What does “home base” mean? As we talked about it, we decided it meant a place that makes you feel at home! Ha An had a killer breakfast (included!) free bicycles, a pool table, a fruit basket in your room…everything! The bed and pillows were super comfy too! http://www.haanhotel.com

 *****

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

AWARD: Best Host…laundry room gets honorable mention

View from our HCMC apartment!

Our apartment in HCMC was gorgeous! Well decorated and had a killer view.  But it was our host who made our stay there so spectacular. Bach is so thoughtful and accommodating, he makes you want to stay and stay!!! He read our blog before our arrival and moved a Wii into the apartment just for our stay. He kept our baggage for us for 5 days while we went to the beach. He put extra toothbrushes, toothpaste, Oreos, coffee, snacks, water, laundry soap, everything in the apartment for us to use. This is the type of service you expect from a good hotel but you never get pampered like that in a rental apartment! It was awesome!!!! https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1980685

 *****

Mui Ne, Vietnam

AWARD: Best Pool for Kids

Even though Mui Ne is on the beach in Vietnam, we didn’t spend anytime at the beach…that is because our pool was KILLER! It had a slide that was so fun, I spent as much time on it as the kids Roaming Jones kids and Sharples kids agree that what we will all remember about Mui Ne will be the epic Sea Links pool!!!  The house was decent.  In a golf resort where all the houses look exactly the same but the pool was unforgettable! http://www.agoda.com/sea-links-beach-resort-golf/hotel/phan-thiet-vn.html

*****

In the spirit of trying to keep a journal of accomodatons, restaurants, sites, etc. I have become an uber-reviewer on TripAdvisor.  Feel free to check out my profile and follow along on further details if you want  http://www.tripadvisor.com/members/misopiso88

First of all, let me just point out that Tanzania is very different from Morocco. With that said, we were all not exactly prepared for the abrupt change in pace. Sweaty, squished, and smothered by luggage, it was a very rough drive from the airport to the hotel and back again. That was, in fact, all we did, yet it brought on a whirlwind of pandemonium that lasted approximately nine hours (six of them being in a hotel room completely passed out). Such a meager excuse of a stay in Dar doesn’t truly merit an actual assessment of the whole. But that’s exactly what we did and we assessed the city as just one big, chaotic gridlock which you’ll be lucky if you happen to make it out on the other side.

My parents always say when they’re traveling to a new place that it’s a beta test for the next time they come. Well I guess I got to understand a bit and experience what exactly they meant in our second stay in Dar. There’s really not much to say other than when we reached the outskirts of the city and plowed our 25 passenger “Respect Jesus” van into the still traffic-jammed roads we were barely even phased by the onslaught. Of course, we were accompanied by Nayay, Erin, and Marqus who, by reading earlier African blog posts you’ll know, were of so much help and are always so calm and patient— not to mention that Erin and Nayay lived in Dar for three years so they knew all the best places to go. Also, more conversant, we brought back all our adventures and misadventures and each value we attained because of them while exploring this beautiful country. A month in Tanzania definitely transforms you. It’ll make you rethink you’re set bars of craziness levels and then turn those crazy moments into treasured memories you’ll keep with you forever.

If there’s one thing that I took away from my unnecessarily long rant, it’s that changes are happening every minute of everyday. Bad and good; inside yourself and outside in the world. Sometimes they occur globally and affect many people, but others they’re more minor and it might be only you who is either made better or worse. It seems to me that change is a continual and fundamental part in our lives. So let me say this though: if the only constant in life really is change, than why does it never fail to surprise us every time?

Our own personal dala dala (minibus) we hired to go from Bagamoyo to Dar

Many of our learning for Tanzania were already articulated in our Kila La Kheri Zanzibar post, but we wanted to add a few more from our time in Arusha, Bagamoyo and Dar Es Salaam:

1) POLI POLI. Poli poli means “slowly slowly” or “slow down” in Swahili. Slowing down is very difficult for many of us to do…especially me  We were reminded each and every day by the locals “poli poli” and after a month, we finally started to get it People in Tanzania take time to stop, say hi to one another and ask how things are going. Nayay explained that he would never walk by another Maasai without stopping and speaking to them for a few minutes. Very few of us in the USA take this approach, especially if we are in a rush to get to school, work, lunch, a meeting, etc. It made me realize that we are all missing a lot…..in our pursuit for efficiency and speed, we are losing the people to people connection. I am going to try to adopt more of the “poli poli” attitude when I return to Seattle

2) TRAVEL WITH A LOCAL. Traveling around Tanzania, we were fortunate to have locals with us for the majority of our time. Nayay, Erin, Terri, Caito and William helped us see more and do more than we would have ever done on our own!! We could only hope to have connections similar in any upcoming country! Thank you to all of you who made our time in Tanzania so special!

3) DON’T TRAVEL TO AFRICA BECAUSE YOU THINK IT WILL BE INEXPENSIVE. Simply put, Africa is expensive. Everything costs more than you think it should. Food, transportation, lodging, etc, etc. Of course, I am sure we were getting the Mzungo (foreigner) pricing but it couldn’t really be avoided since we don’t look or speak like locals. We were shocked by how expensive everything was and are breathing a sigh of relief to be back in Vietnam where the seven of us can eat an awesome meal for $20!!! If you are planning a trip to Tanzania, be prepared!  A week in Dar Es Salaam will cost you the same amount as a week in Santa Cruz, CA. Go to Africa for the culture and the experience but don’t go with the expectation that it will be a cheap vacation!

4) HAKUNA MATATA! We all know this phrase from the movie “Lion King” but it is more than a phrase…it is definitely a lifestyle in Tanzania. People live life happily and fully, without sweating the small stuff or letting things weigh them down. “No worries” or “no problem” is the mantra and you rarely see a person get upset or lose their temper. It is amazing and inspiring and just like “poli poli” an attitude that I hope to adopt and continue to practice back in the USA!

Termite mound that locals eat for nutrients, especially when pregnant!

When we returned to Dar a month later, we were prepared for the worst. Of course we were also anxious to see the side of Dar that, like everyone else, would win us over. Breaking through the surface of the dirt and grime, we looked closer and sure enough we found some amazing spots with the help of our friends Nayay and Erin. Having lived in Dar for 3 years, they knew all the cool places to hangout and see.  So on our last night, we headed out to Erin’s favorite (and #2 on TripAdvisor) restaurant: Addis.

The tables look like funky baskets

I had never had Ethiopian cuisine before. I was expecting spices though… a ton of spices. Exotic flavors, and really good coffee. All were true and then some. The restaurant was outside overlooking a lawn that was nothing truly special to look at, but that didn’t matter since night was fast approaching. By the time we got our food, we could barely see anything! We were huddled around two tables that were each about the size of a night stand and sitting on small wooden chairs. Terri (from the Boabab home) had joined us that night to see us one last time before we left so we were able to share in the experience of our blind feast. When the food came it was on two big trays that were exactly the same size as the tables.  With one graceful move, the waiter placed the tray down and took off the lid making our eyes widen as we stared at the platter. We were given baskets of some type of sourdough bread that had kind of a pancake-y feel to it, but tasted nothing like pancakes or sourdough.  Unrolling the bread, we ripped a piece off and scooped up our food. Not easily being able to see what everything was let us better enjoy the rich and colorful flavors.  The entire meal definitely got our surprised taste buds singing, thus making it one of the better highlights of Dar

We are eagerly awaiting our meal

We were introduced to Terri through Erin Jones, Wescott’s godmother. (See “Hanging With The Joneses: Part 1“) Terri had a vision for the Baobab Home over 10 years ago. Now, her vision has expanded to include a school, hospital breakfast program for HIV positive community members as well as a self-sustainable farm. For those of you who want to learn more, Terri has put together a dynamite video explaining her mission on her website.

Kitchen building at the Baobab Farm

Solar on the farm! Terri and Caito have built a well and installed solar so they do not need to depend on the town of Bagamoyo to run the farm!

The seven of us had the pleasure of hanging out with Terri, Caito and all the kids at Baobab Home for a week while Wescott completed his Eagle Project. In addition to helping with the project, we all got to play with the kids and spend time with Terri and the staff at Baobab learning more about the school and farm. The work they are doing at Baobab Home is simply inspiring!!! Every project they tackle is executed flawlessly with as much sweat, heart and soul put into the task as funds. It is so cool to see a non-profit working so effectively at a local level in Tanzania. Perhaps it is because Terri, Caito and their two kids really are imbedded in the Bagamoyo community. But, in addition, I believe it is the leadership, vision and unstoppable optimism of Terri herself that gives Baobab Home it’s winning combination of warmth and success

Terri opening up the last box of books that was delivered while we were visiting!

Thank you Terri, Caito and all the kids at Baobab Home for letting us experience the richness you have created in Bagamoyo firsthand. You are role models for us all!! Xoxo, The a Sharples Gang

P.S. If you are a teacher, a sustainable living expert or just an enthusiastic human who has always wanted to travel to Tanzania, Terri is always looking for volunteers. Feel free to email her directly. She would love to tell you about many of the opportunities at the Baobab home!

P.P.S. If you’re not ready to travel to Tanzania, but want to make a big impact on the future of some amazing kids, check out ways to get involved on the Baobab Home website!

This little girl loved walking on my feet around the classroom! She was the cutest!!!

All of us with the two classes and teachers

Yve and Otto showing off one of the bookcases to the “clients”

Wescott taking questions in the classroom

At the core of our global adventure is connection, and more than any destination so far, our time in Bagamoyo offered such bounty on so many levels. The Dali Lama says true happiness is reached when you’re doing something for others without expecting anything in return… I think we all understand this a little bit better – especially Wescott. After working together with people from all over the world to complete his goal of providing an English library of leveled reading books to primary and secondary students, we all appreciate that the returns from helping others in need are far greater than anything we could expect or want.

Kids at the school heading out for a break

Me with some of the great kids at STA

It is humbling to meet people who have dedicated their lives to service. Terri and Caito Mwandu are such perfect examples of this, as founders of Baobab Home and the Steven Tito Academy (STA). See Lisa’s blog post for more!

We also met others who revolve around the school and home who are equally inspiring. A retired couple from Australia lives above the kitchen in a tiny room, committing 6 months to helping out at Baobab Home. They do at least 6 months of service somewhere in the world each year – usually Africa – where they touch untold numbers of lives and make such a difference.  Kate, a twenty-something bundle of energy, spent her 6 weeks of paid vacation from her job to volunteering in Tanzania, helping the school and home with all kinds of chores. Lauren, an educator from Australia is one of the two primary school teachers at STA and is in the middle of a 2-year commitment living and working at the school and farm.

Kate after painting a lot of school chairs!

And finally William, a young man who came to Baobab Home as a boy from the streets of Bagamoyo, now graduated from University and pursuing a career in social work. In addition to helping Terri out at the home and working with families that have had their lives devastated by AIDS, William served as Wescott’s lieutenant to build the bookcases for the school. For three and a half days, Wescott, William and a team of the rest of us worked out of Ernesto’s carpentry “shop” in the middle of the town. William really went out of his way to provide whatever support Wescott needed, in addition to teaching us so much about what life is like in East Africa.

Gentle William

Bagamoyo also offered us a chance to see what life is like in a working town far afield from the tourist trail. Located about an hour and a half north of Dar Es Salaam, this once sleepy fishing village is experiencing the lightening rod of globalization. The roads are all dirt through the central part of the city, bustling with people, cows, goat and chickens all blending into an exotic tapestry of a life as different from our home as could be imagined. Permeating through the whirl of sites, colors, sounds, scents and activity is the warm and welcoming people of Bagamoyo making us all feel at home for our stay.

Man frying fish at the Bagamoyo Fish Market – done like this for centuries…

Of course, the children at the home and school touched all of us deeply. Their boundless enthusiasm, bright spirits and welcoming demeanor made each of us feel welcome. Wescott had celebrity status, and at times when he walked around the farm, he had an entourage of little people holding on to him.  The connections and impact made through his Eagle project radiated through the beaming, smiling faces of the children. Proud and in awe, my favorite memories of Wescott’s philanthropic enterprise will include Wescott: reading a story from one of the new books; tracing our journey for the kids across a giant wall map of the world; or accepting appreciation in the form of a group hug for the library after installing the bookcases and loading the shelves with all the new, wonderful books provided by so many great people so far away.

Wescott with his entourage

The Jones-Sharples posse hanging out in Arusha at our cool rental house!

Erin, Nayay, Sambi and Kiaka were the first Jones Family to meet up with us on this trip!  They joined us in Zanzibar following the Christmas holiday! They currently live in Austin, TX but Nayay grew up in Tanzania so we had been talking to them for a long time about the possibility of connecting in Tanzania and exploring the country together. They were excited to take Sambi (age 7) and Kiaka (age 2) to spend time with family and we were psyched to experience the country with friends who knew Tanzania so well. In addition, they brought along a college friend, Marqus, who quickly learned that traveling with seven kids (4 that are age 7 and under) is as exhausting as it sounds

Marqus, Cliff and Nayay hanging out at the Baobab Home

We learned a lot about Maasai culture and Tanzanian history traveling with Erin, Nayay, Sambi and Kiaka. We also ventured off to do many things that we probably would not have had the courage to try if it hadn’t been for them…climbing coconut trees, exploring the Bagamoyo Fish Market, negotiating the purchase of shoes made of old tires, etc! We got up close and personal with crazy animals (black cobra!) and had many more fascinating interactions with locals thanks to their ability to open doors for us! All in all, we had an unforgettable trip to Tanzania and our only regret is not staying longer. Thank you, thank you, thank you Erin, Nayay, Sambi, Kiaka and Marqus for adding the magic to our Tanzanzian experience.

Sambi and Kiaka are sporting their shukas in Dar Es Salaam